The best ways to set up a hot tub in your backyard
You do not have to invest much time luxuriating in a hot-tub spa to find its relaxation benefits. And while you ‘d anticipate all that warm swirling water to be soothing, it can also work wonders on aching muscles and joints and it’s a great all-around stress reliever. Yard health clubs are ideal for families on the go. They can slow us down, help us refocus and drain away the stress of the day – all in about 20 minutes.
Hot tubs are not for everybody. All those warm, rubbing bubbles can raise blood pressure and heart rates, while reducing blood sugar. They’re not suggested for babies, the extremely old or those with diabetes, hypertension or heart disease.
Selecting Your hot tub
Shopping for spas can be a little complicated. There are many brand names and designs, and every salesperson seems to highlight a various set of functions. As typical, rate is an excellent indicator of quality. Hot Tubs range between $1500 and $10,000, with the better models beginning around $3500. These are three- and four-person tubs. Larger health spas cost more, and those with lots of specialized jets, DC-powered pumps and ozone-generating water cleansers, can soon reach $6000 to $8000. Add devices and you can quickly pay a couple thousand more.
A couple of business provide two-person spas, but most begin with three- or four-person seating and go up to the eight-person size. A full-size tub can determine 8 x 8 ft. and 42 in. Huge tubs are great for large, active families with plenty of area, however smaller tubs are no less attractive or restorative.
Filled with water, a full-size tub can weigh 5500 pounds – more than the majority of conventionally framed floors and decks can safely handle. If you cannot beef up the floor, you’ll either need a smaller sized tub or a setup on concrete.
A lot of spa shells nowadays are made in 2 layers: a reinforced fiberglass base and a formed acrylic shell laminated over it. Fiberglass brings strength, and acrylic includes toughness and more color and texture options. The shell is piped and fitted with pumps and jets, and is insulated. The shell is free-standing, so the wood skirting is largely ornamental, though it does conceal and safeguard the equipment.
The majority of hot tubs are wired with 240-volt electrical equipment and some consist of DC converters. DC motors run more quietly and DC circuit boards are extremely trusted. A couple of economy tubs are available with 120-volt circuitry to make the electrical connections easier – you just plug these designs in. Nevertheless, these tubs are small, their heating units are less effective and they closed down when the jets are switched on.
Companies typically use 10- to 20-year warranties against leakages through the shell, however these kinds of leaks are not likely provided the density of the laminations. More possible are surface area issues such as blisters, cracks and staining. Search for a 5- to seven-year surface area warranty and 3- to five-year defense on the pumps.
The spa we chose is a JacuzziTriton – a big design with all the bells and whistles. Powered by two 4-hp DC pumps, it sports 42 jets – 10 totally adjustable and 16 directional, 10 air injector jets and a set of lounge jets that use full back massage. Other features include a push-button control for the tub operation, an AM/FM/CD player, underwater lighting, 4 headrest cushions and dual waterfall fixtures. Most importantly, it consists of a built-in ozone generator and a water cleanser that saves time and loan by decreasing the amount of chemicals needed. At 42 x 91 x 91 in., it’s not the largest tub, however it comes close. Jacuzzi’s Triton has a price tag of $10,000, however generally sells for less.
Finding The Tub
Our backyard is little, extending only about 20 ft. beyond a big deck. The grade also steps up about 2-1/2 ft., roughly 10 ft. far from the deck. To fit the tub, we cut away some of the bank and developed a small maintaining wall. When deciding where to place your system, remember that hot tubs require service access on all sides.
We planned for one side of our tub to be 18 in. from our deck, then distributed the width of the tub plus an extra 18 in. to establish the face of the new retaining wall. To accommodate the depth of the retaining-wall obstructs, plus a foot for drain gravel, we cut into the bank an additional 24 in.
Utilizing some of the eliminated soil, grade the installation location simply enough to allow drain away from the tub. For the very first row of landscape blocks, excavate a trench about 4 in.
Level the gravel and compact it with a hand tamper or gas-powered sand-plate tamper. String a level line to assist the first row of blocks. Use a 4-ft. level to make sure the course is level.
Set landscape blocks on pea gravel in the trench to match the leveled string. Then, examine this first course with a 4-ft. level.
With the first course in location, set the staying blocks. When turning a corner, you’ll require to break off this edge to maintain the same setback in between the courses. To keep these blocks from moving forward over time, glue them in place with masonry construction adhesive.
Where the wall turns, break off edge-lock tabs on the blocks. Next, apply construction adhesive to hold the blocks in place.
Next, set the type lumber for the concrete pad, and level it in all directions. Fill the kind with concrete and screed it with a straight 2 x 4.
While a sufficient pad might consist of 2500-psi concrete, boosted with iron rebar or wire mesh, local electrical codes would have needed us to ground this enhancing metal back to the electrical circuit box. To prevent this problem, we updated to 3000-psi concrete and added fiberglass support to our 4-in.- thick pad.
After pouring concrete in a leveled type, screed it with a straight 2 x 4. Float and trowel the surface smooth.
We moved our tub from the driveway to the site on a little trailer. Thoroughly slide the tub off and place it on the slab.
Setting The Tub
If you purchase your hot tub from a spa dealership, the company will usually set it in place for you. If you purchase through a home center or discount store, however, you may have to move and set up the tub yourself. Big tubs weigh near a thousand pounds, so this can seem a difficult job. With 5 or 6 good friends and a little trailer, nevertheless, all of it ends up being workable. Presuming your tub is in a crate in the driveway, eliminate the packing and slide the tub onto the trailer. Wheel it to the website and carefully move it onto the concrete pad. If you have to pass through a gate or narrow side lawn, stand the tub on end atop a furniture cart. The right side of our tub, as you deal with the front, is constructed for upright travel.
Water and electrical energy don’t blend, so if you’re not comfy with your electrical wiring skills, this is an excellent time to hire an electrical contractor.
In our case, local codes required a constant bond wire from the tub to the service panel. This is in addition to the electrical ground. Codes differ on this point, so be sure to ask your regional inspector. We also required a detach box a minimum of 5 ft. from the tub and a GFCI breaker securing the entire circuit.
Because of the DC converter, we utilized only 2 hot wires, a grounding wire and a bonding wire – no neutral was needed. Our spa was close to 70 ft. from the circuit box, so we ran 6-ga. stranded wire for the 2 hots and the ground wire, and an 8-ga. bond wire. While all outside circuitry has to be in avenue, we decided to install the whole run from the main panel in 1-in. PVC pipeline.
Begin by running the conduit from the service panel to a home rim joist near the tub. Bore through the siding and the joist with a hole saw and feed the channel through the joist.
Bring power from the main panel to the exterior through the home’s rim joist. Bore a hole to move channel through.
Glue a POUND conduit box to the avenue and extend the channel up to a disconnect box. At the tub, join a LB to the channel with a slip coupling to permit the ground to move seasonally without worrying the channel connections. Here, we brought it up to the deck with another slip coupling and LB, and then ran it to the disconnect box.
At the tub, splice a slip coupling just below the LB connection. Run the conduit in a trench a minimum of 18 in. deep
With the avenue in location, pull the four wires from the main panel to the disconnect box with a fish tape.
With channel from the panel and tub conference at the detach box, use a fish tape to pull the 4 wires through.
Bind the hot wires to the hot terminals and the ground wires to the ground terminals. In our case, it was required that the bonding wire continue uninterrupted through the detach panel.
Inside the detach box, link the hot wires to the 4 hot terminals, and the ground wires to the two ground terminals.
Complete the outdoor circuitry by making the hot, ground and bond connections in the spa’s devices box. You’ll discover the terminals clearly labeled.
At the tub’s control box, fasten the hot wires, the ground wire and the bonding wire inning accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
Link the circuit hot wires to a 50-amp GFCI breaker in the service panel and link the bond and grounding wires to the panel’s grounding bus. Leave the circuit’s power off till after you’ve filled the tub with water and your work has actually passed assessment.
In the circuit box, connect the circuit with a 50-amp, 240-volt GFCI breaker. Shut off the power and prevent touching the panel.
To make actions for our hot tub, we first put a 31-in. Make the box frames out of 2 x 6 lumber. Size the depth of the bottom box for two 2 x 12 treads, and the depth of the top box for one 2 x 12 tread.
Develop frames from 2 x 6 cedar for the two actions. Construct the larger bottom frame first and connect two 2 x 12s to its top.
After the bottom box is developed, protect the top box frame to it with screws driven diagonally from the inside
Place the smaller frame on the rear edge of the lower step and secure the 2 levels with screws owned diagonally.
Then, include the top tread and stain the assembly to match the skirting.
Finish the action assembly by screwing a single 2 x 12 tread to the top box frame. Stain the actions to match the tub.
1. Make sure hot tub/spa is filled to proper amount. The Proper amount is whatever the spa manufacturer suggests the spa water to be for proper operation of the spa. SpaCap.com Swim Spa Covers/ Hot Tub Covers rest right on the water surface so make sure your spa has water in it.
2. Distinguish the top from the bottom and observe the location of the valves. The top is the side of the Spacap with the Sunbrella fabric on it that shows when it is on the spa. The bottom is the side with the valves on it. When the SpaCap is on the spa, the bottom will rest on the water.
3. Place the SpaCap cover on spa, laying it on water surface. Top, Sunbrella side up. You are meant to fold the cover back to expose the valves to fill your SpaCap.
Note: Valves are meant to be on underside when your cover is on hot tub.
4. Inflation. Open the flap of the valve you intend to put air in. Prop open the inner check valve with a plastic funnel. The funnel will also divert the air into the cover. In order to put air into the SpaCap you need something that moves a volume of air. For example a shop vac that has an exhaust port you can hook the hose into or a leaf blower. An air compressor would work but it will take longer since it is designed to move air under pressure. The SpaCap is not designed to be under pressure.
Inflate the “Top” valve first until there is about eight inches of air. Inflate the bottom unmarked chamber to desired level. We recommend using a shop vac to inflate your SpaCap.com Swim Spa Cover/ Hot Tub Cover.
5. Close valves and center the cover on the spa so that it evenly covers the entire hot tub.
6. Place fasteners as needed. The fasteners help the SpaCap keep its shape, insulate better and keep the moisture running off. The fasteners should be equally spaced and should go below the acrylic of the spa. If your spa has a wood lip that protrudes further then the acrylic the fasteners should go about three inches below the wood lip. If as you are installing the fasteners the cover becomes difficult to fasten on the last side, you have too much air in the cover. There should still be a little give in the cover when fastened and the corners should not be lifting.
If your water is not heated when you first fit the cover, do not inflate the cover all the way. When the water starts to heat up, the air in the cover will, too, possibly causing the cover to be over inflated.
Lastly, set up the polyester filters in the filter real estates and fill the tub with a garden tube.
With the setup total, it’s time to fill the tub. Prior to filling, nevertheless, set up the polyester filters in their real estates.
Insert the tube into among the filter real estates and tape it in location. Anticipate the tub to complete about 45 minutes.
Fill the tub through the filter real estates with a garden hose pipe. Tape the hose pipe in location. The tub ought to fill out about 45 minutes.